Renowned chef Tawnya Brant extols the virtues of pawpaws, referring to them as a cherished natural gem. The exotic-tasting fruit, surprisingly found in Canada, promises a delightful experience for those lucky enough to savor it.
Brant, the proprietor of Yawékon Foods and the host of APTN’s “One Dish One Spoon,” compares the pawpaw’s flavor to a blend of banana, mango, and pineapple, boasting a creamy consistency that transforms into a caramel-like richness as it ripens. Describing the fruit as an “alien banana,” she notes its unique oval shape and large seeds.
Historically, pawpaws flourished in North America, spanning from Florida to Missouri and southern Ontario. Indigenous communities once cultivated them extensively before deforestation for agricultural purposes limited their growth. Today, some wild trees and orchards in select regions like southern Ontario, B.C., and Quebec still bear fruit in the autumn.
The limited popularity of pawpaws stems from their short shelf life and susceptibility to bruising, hindering large-scale commercial distribution. Despite these challenges, interest in pawpaws is on the rise, with individuals like Brant and farmer Thomas Mathias championing their cultivation and consumption.
Mathias, who experimented for over a decade before successfully growing pawpaws, credits llama manure for aiding in pollination. Alongside his sister, Beth Secord, they operate Mathias Farm in Ontario’s Niagara region, where the tropical-looking pawpaw trees yield substantial fruit quantities annually.
Secord notes the growing demand for pawpaws, attributing it to word of mouth and the fruit’s unique taste. She envisions a future where pawpaws become a household staple, echoing Brant’s sentiment that sharing this “treasured little gift” with others is truly rewarding.
As pawpaws gain momentum, enthusiasts can find them at farmers’ markets or dedicated festivals. Brant suggests various culinary uses for pawpaws, cautioning about the toxic nature of the skin and seeds while highlighting the fruit’s rich flavor profile. With her own pawpaw trees in the works, Brant eagerly anticipates the day when she can introduce more individuals to this exceptional fruit.